Two weeks ago I arrived in Munich for my History of Nazism course through The Village. After thousands of pages of readings, papers, and evening discussions, what I learned was suddenly, so tangibly, within reach. We explored greater Munich area where the Nazi party grew in size and power, eventually executing its plans for mass genocide.
Here in Pontlevoy, France – our home base for The Village program – we have a “museum in the streets”; plaques and photographs line alleyways and monumental areas, depicting the historical and political importance of our little town. Now, if we were to create a similar exhibition in the streets of Munich, we may be able to show people the rise and regime of the Nazi party, emphasizing the significance of certain sites.
Nuremberg houses the original Nazi party rally grounds and Congress, taking over 11 square kilometers. During its regime, the Nazi party held six rallies there between 1933-1938, intended to be a sort of mecca for the government to organize and centralize nationalism. The architecture of the Congress building itself embodies the Nazi emphasis on efficiency, order, and authoritative rule with granite arches reminiscent of Roman monuments, although absent of any decoration or ornament.
The Zeppelinfeld nearby was used for the Nazi rallies. Grandstands line the perimeter with Hitler’s podium front and center. During the regime the field was lined with stadium lights pointed upwards. At night the beams of light shot up to create Lichtdom, the Cathedral of Light. Both the Congress building and the Zeppelinfeld have generally been left to neglect to keep it from becoming a Nazi pilgrimage site.
On November 8, 1939 Georg Elser attempted to assassinate Hitler in the Burgerbraukeller during his speech. He planted bombs in the pillar right behind Hitler’s podium, but due to foggy weather, Hitler ended his speech 13 minutes later so he could make it to Berlin. Elser was soon arrested after attempting to escape to Switzerland. He was tortured at the Berlin Gestapo Headquarters and sent to Sachsenhausen camp until he was murdered in Dachau in 1945. Elser is remembered as a symbol of bravery and resistance during a time of political oppression and daily threat of death.
An alternative site of resistance is Munich’s Viscardigasse Street, now paved in gold to memorialize everyday Nazi opposition. On the other side of the street is the Nazi monument for those who died during the Beer Hall Putsch. German citizens who did not want to make the Nazi salute to this memorial chose to take this street around it. Called “Shirker’s Alley,” these people avoided the Nazi salute with the risk of being caught and beaten, or worse, sent to Dachau. In hindsight, this action might not seem like a valid or courageous act of resistance, but this small memorial reminds us that the political environment of the Nazi regime made it incredibly dangerous for everyday Germans to openly oppose the party.
Another site I would include are the solitary confinement prison cells in Dachau internment camp. Of course, the entire camp is incredibly impactful and integral to understanding the systemic imprisonment and extermination of Jewish people, as well as other populations, but the prison emphasizes the brutality of not only Dachau but many of the other camps. Dachau was the first camp and was created for political prisoners and those who spoke or acted out against the regime. Elser was imprisoned in solitary confinement here in 1945 until he was shot and cremated within the camp. Dachau was not an extermination camp and the gas chambers were not used for mass killings, however many were worked to death, murdered, or died due to insufficient and inhumane conditions. Approximately 32,000 died here.
The last site I would include is the Nuremberg Court that held the trials against the Nazis immediately after World War II. The military tribunals were held and enforced by the Allied forces, and the first, most famous trial prosecuted to prominent leaders of the Nazi party. Most were sentenced to death by hanging. The trials were incredibly important as they created a legacy of international law to persecute those who commit war crimes and acts against humanity. It from these trials that we hear the infamous Nazi defense: “I was just following orders.” Half a century later, we still grapple with the consequences of groupthink in a manipulative, authoritative political atmosphere that took advantage of a country at its weakest.
While a museum on the street would be an interesting and innovative idea to bring to Munich, Nuremberg, and Dachau, I feel that it would not be as effective as it should be. Even these pictures on a blog post do not do these historical monuments and sites justice. We will never be able to experience the horrors of World War II and the mass genocide. We will never be able to truly empathize with the survivors and soldiers of this time. However, physically visiting these places pushes us, especially as Americans, to learn about the rise, reign, and fall of the Nazi regime. Visiting these sites catalyzed my critical thinking about many individuals’ experiences of the genocide, which in part helps me grapple with consequences of it all.
xx. Diana
on being diana 